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Chemija / Chemistry

ISSN 0235-7216
ISSN 2424-4538 (online)

2012 m. Nr. 3

Identification of main constituents of historical textile dyes by ultra performance liquid chromatography with photodiode array detection
Lukas TAUJENIS, Vilma OLŠAUSKAITĖ

Ultra performance liquid chromatography equipped with a photodiode array detector (UPLC-PDA) was employed for the identification of main constituents of natural dyes. The dyestuffs investigated were the following: luteolin, apigenin, quercetin, rutin, gallic acid, carminic acid, alizarin, purpurin and indigotin. Among the three stationary phases (i. e., C18, C8 and phenyl) studied under reversed phase conditions, C18 phase provided slightly stronger retention and higher resolution. Complete separation of eight analytes (except indigotin) was achieved in less than 6 min by gradient elution with an acetonitrile-water mobile phase containing 0.1% trifluoroacetic acid (TFA). Strongly hydrophobic indigotin was determined in a separate UPLC run using isocratic elution with a 75 : 25 (v/v) acetonitrile / water mobile phase. The efficiencies of aqueous / methanolic HCl, EDTA and TFA solutions were compared for the extraction of natural dye components from dyed wool. The HCl system gave higher extraction yields than other two extractants. For the extraction of indigotin, dimethylformamide was selected as an extractant. Finally, the UPLC-PDA method was applied for the identification of dye compounds in the extracts of historical textiles samples.

Keywords: ultra performance liquid chromatography, photodiode array detection, dyes, historical textiles

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